Sunday, 9 October 2011

Summer's over

The Summer is over, temperatures are great, skies are Blue & the rock is dry.
Hardest part of the day is deciding where to climb! And which projects to get on....

Blasco starting up "Momo"

Man Flu hit me today, so feeling weak and feeble I ventured a full 3 minute drive to L'ocaive and surprised myself by doing an old 7b there called "Momo" which had shut me down several times in the past.

Blasco lowering off "Momo" 7b, L'Ocaive.

Great to see Miguel climbing today - I'm truly inspired by his recent progression. Not so long ago he was projecting 6c, today I arrived to see him comfortably working on the 7c/7c+ variation of the popular 8a at L'Ocaive - just a matter of time till he sends it....

 Miguel on the 7c/7c+ variation

So next up, to hunt out a worthy Big Wall Project, something that's not been freed, but realistic for this year! Fitness is slowly coming back and with wiser training this season I'm excited to see what will happen.

Monday, 3 October 2011

Rainy Day and Glory for Blasco

Let's go cragging, oh it's raining....
Whilst the UK was enjoying the "Summer part 2", we had some end of summer thunderstorms...

So where to go?
Criteria: steep, dry in the rain, new and not too far.
Result =  Gaz Parry's Crag X - somewhere in the Costa Blanca ;)

Gaz has done a fantastic job in opening this new & "futuristic" crag with over 20 routes mostly high 7's up to uber projects.

Sergi approaching the crux sequence on "Luz del Sol" (hard) 7c.

In Spanish a climbing area/sector is often referred to as an "escuela", literally a school of climbing. The phrase of the day that repeatedly echoed around the crag was "no es una escuela, es una universidad"
This is no climbing school, it's an university! 

Roy starting up another 7c (7a up to the hard bit)

This place certainly fit the bill for the day, even if we all went home with an arse kickin...
Topos are likely be released later this year.

La cultura del miedo

Gnaro Productions have done a great piece featuring Blasco climbing the infamous 8a at L'ocaive. It captures the emotion, dedication & hard work Blasco put in to his long term project which he red pointed in August.

La cultura del miedo from Hugo on Vimeo.